What type of spark plugs do I use on my ZZ3 motor? I know that there are a lot of different spark plugs but what type do I use in my engine? I have some plugs that have a lot of threads and I have a set with short threads. Which ones do I use?

Jeff Smith: Each spark plug manufacturer uses a specific set of numbers and letters to designate individual spark plugs. You almost need a code book to decipher their meaning. We won’t get into that here because it could easily fill a book. I will break down what type of spark plug you need and then give you several part number recommendations.

Your ZZ3 engine uses the same aluminum heads as the mid-80’s Corvettes using the L98 engine. These engines used a stock AC plug with part number MR43LTS, but let’s get into an actual description of this spark plug so you can then choose from any number of different brands of plugs–in case you have a favorite.

This is the type of spark plug you will need for your ZZ small-block. Most stock small-block cylinder heads take this 0.704-inch thread reach plug with a tapered seat and a projected nose. This happens to be a Bosch copper center electrode plug.

This is the type of spark plug you will need for your ZZ small-block. Most stock small-block cylinder heads take this 0.704-inch thread reach plug with a tapered seat and a projected nose. This happens to be a Bosch copper center electrode plug.

Most modern spark plugs use a 14mm thread, which is what your heads use. As you have pointed out, the length of the threads is a critical part of the application. Your engine uses a spark plug with a reach or thread distance of 0.708-inch. This is the amount of thread that comes into contact with the cylinder head. At the top of the threads, this spark plug uses a tapered seat to seal the combustion pressure. Most aftermarket aluminum heads use a longer 0.750-inch thread with a gasket while most OE spark plugs seal with this tapered seat. Now let’s get to the business end of the spark plug.

The ZZ3 engine uses a projected nose design which means the plug’s active, center electrode protrudes past the end of the threaded portion of the plug and extends farther into the combustion chamber. This also requires the ground electrode to be longer to extend over the end of the center electrode. Projected nose plugs are useful for stock type engines as they place the spark closer to the center of the chamber for better combustion efficiency. The gap between the ground and center electrode will be about 0.035-inch, which is fine for your engine.

Now we can get into the spark plug’s heat range. Stock and mild performance engines use heat range plugs which tend to be on the hot side of the heat range chart. This is intentional so that carbon deposits will burn off rather than adhere to the spark plug. A hot spark plug can be identified visually because there is a deep gap from where the ceramic center of the spark plug contacts the steel body of the plug. If that depth is very shallow, that constitutes a cold heat range spark plug.

Besides the AC MR43LTS part number, I found several other plugs that are direct conversions including the Champion RS12YC, an Autolite 103, the Bosch +14 which is also called an HR8BC. This should be sufficient to find a good plug for your engine. If you are considering a colder race plug perhaps for nitrous, I’d suggest an Autolite AR103 that is about 3 steps colder.

You might also be considering some of the more exotic, “boutique” spark plugs with wild variations on plug gap , multiple ground straps, and the like. We’ve tried many of these plugs in performance automotive engines and never seen any advantage over a standard, single ground strap spark plug. There may be durability advantages to the “fine-wire” plugs that use platinum or other exotic metals. We’ll leave that choice up to you.

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Author: Jeff Smith

Jeff Smith has had a passion for cars since he began working at his grandfather's gas station at the age 10. After graduating from Iowa State University with a journalism degree in 1978, he combined his two passions: cars and writing. Smith began writing for Car Craft magazine in 1979 and became editor in 1984. In 1987, he assumed the role of editor for Hot Rod magazine before returning to his first love of writing technical stories. Since 2003, Jeff has held various positions at Car Craft (including editor), has written books on small block Chevy performance, and even cultivated an impressive collection of 1965 and 1966 Chevelles. Now he serves as a regular contributor to OnAllCylinders.