I just installed a new cam in my small block Chevy. The engine runs great, but I’ve noticed that at idle and at some cruising speeds the engine makes a noise that sounds more like a mechanical lifter camshaft. I bought a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft but this one sounds more like a solid lifter engine. Did somebody sell me the wrong cam?
D.C.
Jeff Smith: The quick answer to your question is that the camshaft you selected is, in fact a hydraulic camshaft so don’t tear it out just yet. What you are hearing is the effect of more aggressive techniques to deliver more performance from either a hydraulic flat or hydraulic roller cam. A stock camshaft lobe profile adds more duration between initial lifter movement and the 0.050-inch tappet lift numbers in order to keep the lifters quiet.
Performance camshaft designers long ago realized that if they could increase the rate of lift of the lobe profile, they could make more lift for the same number of degrees of duration. This helps make more horsepower, but it also generates more lifter noise and this noise can sound very much like the lash clearance on a mechanical lifter camshaft. I believe that is what you are hearing.
All hydraulic lifter engines are designed to accommodate the growth that occurs as the engine warms up. With mechanical cams, this is accomplished with lash or clearance. Hydraulic lifters use what is called lifter preload, which compresses the small piston inside the lifter a given distance. This preload compensates for growth so no lash is necessary. Stock factory preload specs are generally ¾ to 1 full turn of preload, which moves the small piston in the lifter roughly 0.050-inch. Some performance camshaft manufacturers specify far less preload of more like ¼ to ½ turn with the lifter on the base circle of the lobe which reduces the preload down to perhaps only 0.015- to 0.020-inch..
It might be a good idea to recheck your preload settings on all the lifters as it’s possible that you may have missed the spec on one or more lifters and they might be making enough noise to cause concern.
The simplest way to set preload is to use what I call the EO-IC method – or Exhaust Opening Intake Closing. I like to start with the Number One cylinder and run down each bank. I start by bumping the engine over until the exhaust valve just opens (EO). This puts the intake lifter on the base circle of the lobe so we can set the intake preload. With the intake preload set, now bump the engine until the intake valve is halfway closed (IC). Now you can set the preload on the exhaust. With the first cylinder finished, you can move to the adjacent cylinder and run through the process again.
When setting preload I’ve noticed that some hydraulic lifter pistons compress very easily. When setting preload, it is essential to find the exact point of zero lash. When the hydraulic piston in the lifter compresses really easily, zero lash can be difficult to determine. Sometimes spinning the pushrod until it gets tight doesn’t work. If you add excessive preload, the engine will run rough at idle. So finding the exact point of zero lash is critical. It demands a deft feel when you can’t see the lifter.
Hope this helps answer your question.
I just installed a new comp cam xe 262 h-10 and lifter set in my 68 plymouth bone stock 440. Replacing a purple shaft hemi street grind I installed in 1992. The motor sounded like I was running solid lifters,driving me crazy. The stock mopar rockers are a none adjustabale set up. Calling comp they said do a push rod check which I did and of course being a all stock motor they were in spec. So getting desperate I reinstalled the old lifters ( which looked like new) with the new comp cam. which I’m told is a no-no but remember I am desperate. Guess what? No more valve train noise and the car runs great. After all the drama,I started reading on the comp cam blog site and a few more customers had the same problem, stating that the comp lifters are noisy, and now I agree. I spent a small fourtune on intake/valleypan/valvecover gaskets,not including my time and stress. Brian.
There is a difference in oil band width of lifters between Chrysler A motors and B / RB motors which causes them not to be pressurized correctly they are both .904 outside diameter and this goes for AMC V8 motors also / A motor lifter is correct for AMC ! HT-2011 for A motor/ AMC and HT-976 for B /RB if they were packaged with those numbers
I have heard the “don’t reuse lifters” no no for years and because of finances have done so anyway. I have done it enough times with no problems I no longer cringe when doing so. However, if I can swing the expense for lifters I will.
How do you perload non adjustable rocker arms as in Mopar?
Hydraulic lifter preload is established by the distance from the rocker arm pushrod cup to the lifter with the rocker shaft torqued in place. If the block or heads have been milled or if non-stock parts are used, then this distance must be checked. Start my establishing zero lash with the lifter on the base circle of the lobe, and then use a dial indicator to measure how far the pushrod moves down as the rocker shaft is tightened down. Generally the lifter preload will be around 0.050-inch. If the shaft moves less – like 0.030-inch, that will still work. If the shaft moves down 0.100-inch, you might consider going to a shorter pushrod. By using an adjustable pushrod, you can establish the correct pushrod length.
Do the lifters have to be able to plunge or can you set them when they are rock hard?
I have primed the engine and cranked the motor over a lot in an attempt to “pump up” the lifters. When attempting to readjust the preload I do not get the plunger effect from the lifter (when turning the rocker adjustment nut in) as I did the first time I did this.
Is it because they are pumped up solid as opposed to being collapsed?
I soaked hydraulic lifters in can of oil before installing but have not turned motor or pumped up oil yet. Do I have to take them out and drain of oil to do preload adjustment?
(‘65 Chevy 327, pretty stock)
I soaked hydraulic lifters in can of oil before installing but have not turned motor or pumped up oil yet. Do I have to take them out and drain of oil to do preload adjustment?
(‘65 Chevy 327, pretty stock)
My 1965 Ford 289 is acting up. I recently got my car roadworthy and discovered that wires 2 & 3 were crossed at the distributor cap. The rough idle and missing were cured. However, the rocker arms were clacking, so I adjusted the valves properly this time. They had only been adjusted statically when the engine had been assembled the 8 years ago. This time I also adjusted them statically and in the proper firing order (1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8).
BTW, I drove the car with the misadjusted valves for 30+ miles over a four-day period. It ran okay despite the clacking.
The problem is this: The clacking is gone, but the engine will only run when I keep the revs up (above 2500 RPM, constantly feathering the pedal). As soon as I let up on the gas the engine slows down and dies. It can be started immediately but dies again when the pedal is released. The engine revs like a champ and does sound strong, but it will not idle. I detected a slight miss at the high revs, but I am not sure if this is part of the problem. There was no miss before I readjusted the valves.