The Ford V8 engine family tree has a lot of branches.
You’ve got the venerable Windsor small block, plus the 385-series and FE-series big block branches, along with a trio of 351 engines—the 351 Windsor, Cleveland, and Modified. We’re now into the overhead-cam Modular motors, which advanced the Ford V8 into the 21st century.
So, we thought it might be helpful to assemble a handy bore and stroke chart to help you understand common displacement configurations.
Then we’ll toss in a Ford stroker chart, so you can see some popular stroker combinations as well.
Ford V8 Engine Bore and Stroke Chart
Ford Stock Engine Bore and Stroke Guide | ||
---|---|---|
Displacement (Cubic Inches or Liters) | Bore (Inches) | Stroke (Inches) |
Ford Windsor Family | ||
221 | 3.500 | 2.870 |
260 | 3.800 | 2.870 |
289 | 4.000 | 2.870 |
302 | 4.000 | 3.000 |
351W | 4.000 | 3.500 |
Ford 335 Family | ||
351C | 4.000 | 3.500 |
351M | 4.000 | 3.500 |
400 | 4.000 | 4.000 |
Ford FE Family | ||
332 | 4.000 | 3.300 |
352 | 4.000 | 3.500 |
360 | 4.050 | 3.500 |
390 | 4.050 | 3.780 |
406 | 4.130 | 3.784 |
410 | 4.050 | 3.980 |
427 | 4.230 | 3.780 |
428 | 4.130 | 3.980 |
Ford 385 Family | ||
429 | 4.360 | 3.590 |
429CJ | 4.360 | 3.590 |
460 | 4.360 | 3.850 |
Ford Modular Family | ||
4.6L | 3.552 | 3.543 |
5.0L (Cammer) | 3.700 | 3.543 |
5.0L Coyote | 3.629 | 3.647 |
5.4L | 3.552 | 4.165 |
5.8L | 3.681 | 4.230 |
Common Ford V8 Stroker Configurations
Ever hear of a 319 Ford small block? How about a 393? Here are some common stroker engines made from the common Windsor small block and the Ford 460 385 series big block.
Ford Stroker Engine Bore and Stroke Guide | |||||||
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Stroked Displacement (Cubic Inches) | Original Displacement (Cubic Inches) | Stock Bore (Inches) | Overbore (Inches) | Crank | Stroke (Inches) | Rod (Inches) | Notes ********************************************************* |
314 | 302 | 4.000 | 0.030 | 302 | 3.075 | 5.250 | • Offset grind crank to 3.075" • Requires aftermarket rods • 400 hp maximum |
319 | 302 | 4.000 | 0.030 | 302 | 3.125 | 5.400 | • Offset grind crank to 3.125" • 500 hp maximum |
331 | 302 | 4.000 | 0.030 | 302 | 3.240 | 5.200 | • Offset grind crank to 3.240" • Requires aftermarket rods similar to 1.9L 4-cylinder rods • 400 hp maximum |
337 | 302 | 4.000 | 0.030 | 302 | 3.300 | 5.400 | • Offset grind crank to 3.300" |
342 | 302 | 4.000 | 0.030 | 302 | 3.350 | 5.400 | • Offset grind crank to 3.350" |
347 | 302 | 4.000 | 0.030 | 302 | 3.400 | 5.400 | • Offset grind crank to 3.400" |
357 | 302 | 4.000 | 0.030 | 302 | 3.500 | 5.400 | None |
372 | 351W | 4.000 | 0.030 | 351W | 3.640 | 6.200 | • Offset grind crank to 3.640" • 600 hp maximum |
375 | 351W | 4.000 | 0.030 | 351W | 3.680 | 6.125 | • Offset grind crank to 3.680" • Requires aftermarket rods • 575 hp maximum |
377 | 351W | 4.000 | 0.030 | 351W | 3.700 | 6.200 | • Offset grind crank to 3.700" • 550 hp maximum |
393 | 351W | 3.850 | 0.030 | Aftermarket | 3.850 | 6.209 | • Offset grind crank to 3.850" • Won’t require cylinder bore notching • No Mallory metal required for balancing • Uses Chrysler 340/360 rods |
408 | 351W | 4.000 | 0.030 | 351W | 4.000 | 6.250 | None |
512 | 460 | 4.360 | 0.080 | 460 | 4.145 | 6.535, 6.768 | • Offset grind crank to 4.145" • Turn rod journals to 2.200" with Big Chrysler 6.535" rod • Turn rod journals to 2.375" with RB Chrysler 6.768" rod |
You left one out . 400 sister to the 351M .
Hey Manuel–we just added it to the 335 family in the first chart–thanks for the heads up!
Wasn’t there a truck motor that was like a 389 or 391 or something that resembled the 427 with side bolts going in to the mains
Many engines had 4 bolt mains.
I’ve used 300ford 6cyl which 6.22 long mod the width can stroke crank
300 6 cyl rods
400m re-grown crank
Special order pistons
N aftermarket block = 440:Ci
That was before all the aftermarket stuff was available
You missed the 332 & 406 in the FE family; the 332 is fairly forgettable, but the 406 was Ford’s early 60s entry in the 3×2 bbl wars!
Dana–They’re in there now–thanks!
Fe 427 can be stroked with 428 crank to make 454…. but I suppose 427 blocks hard to find now.
I think you may want to research a bit more. There is some ‘confusing’ info posted here.
A couple examples: 351W cranks will not it in an 8.2 deck block (base for 331, 342, 347, 357 and now 363 strokers) and the 393 does not use a 4″ stroke crank from a 400M engine but an aftermarket 3.85″ stroke unit sold through Ford Racing, Scat and others.
Hey Spyder, Thanks for the heads up, we’ll confirm and make some updates.
There is NO SUCH THING as a 400m
400 was simply the 351 M with a 4 inch crank installed. These 2 engines had a main journal that was larger then the 351 C. Cylinder centers were the same and the heads wre same as C heads aside from never offering the big 4V ports which came on 302 and 351 Boss
400 came first and was later .odded to be 351M when the 351c was discontinued
Correction 351 M 400 block 351 was Modified to a 400 is what that means and was found in the early 70s to late 70s Ford’s like the 76 LTD big boat cars that weighed anywhere’s from 4400 lbs to 5500 lbs back in the day. Was a special engine .I loved my 351 Cleveland engine holy 4 barrel c10 tranny run and fast like a champ. Best 351 I tested. Anyways all good . Ya all keep up the Ford forum briefs live them.
No, until 1975 there were only two 351 engines, the Cleveland (335 series) and the Windsor. The 335 Series 400 was introduced in late 1970 with a taller deck than the 351C as well as a BB bell housing pattern and 3″ mains. When the 351C was dropped after 1974, 351 Windsor production could not keep up with the demand for an engine of this displacement so a de-stroked version of the 400 known as the 351M was released. The 351M was clearly an afterthought and not available before 1975.
Nobody in their right mind would have made such a heavy toad as the 351M on purpose when the 351C existed. The 351M in 1975 epitomized the malaise era we were headed into as if the American auto industry felt bad about itself or something.
The 351M and the 351W in their early through the 70s were both garbage. Truly the malaise engines. The 351C the 400, especially the early 400 had some compression and ran decently but the vehicle range the two were used in were big. The 302, was used in the light cars. The owners were missing their FEs in that period.
The 400 was never an “M” first of all. After the Cleveland was dropped, it was discovered the 351W wasn’t enough to meet the demand for an engine of that size. So Ford in their infinite wisdom, put a 351W crankshaft in the 400 block, and the 351M was born. It may have been “ok” for that era, otherwise that M stands for “Marine-Anchor”.
A 400 crank can be (and was a lot) used in a 351W block to build a lightweight 408 from junkyard parts. Nowadays it just doesn’t make sense though, with stroker kits so easily accessible. The 351C have 2.75″ mains, while the 400 and 351W have 3.00″ mains.
Also, if someone wants be technical about FE’s, there was a 361 and 391 that were just truck engines, with larger snouts on the cranks.
This is a reply to Bill Ballinger regarding the ’69 and ’70 351W which were definitely NOT “malaise” engines. They used small combustion chambers (64cc ?) and had 1.84″ intake valves for the first two years. For example, an “M-code” 1969 Mustang with the 351W and 4V produced 290hp and has a 10.7:1 compression ratio – certainly a good platform to build off of. The 69-70 351W heads are still sought out for their performance potential.
I am considering a 391FT block that soniced thick. I was thinking a cheap date FE would be to bore the D4TE with the 3 rib mains out to 4..125 bore which 1.150 ch pistons, some Molnar Slant 6 rods, the 7.005 long from the 198 and the 410/428 3.984 crank turned to the 7.005 big end diameter, maybe offset to 4.00. That would be a 427. 65 ci engine put some Pro Port Edelbrock or Trick Flow heads and intake with 2 750 3310 style carbs. I d love 650 hp 625 ft lbs in a wide power band in a 67-68 Mustang Coupe. I drove one similar to school 45 years ago, lol. Took some lunch money with it with 11.6 to 1 and a C8AX-D cam. I must have been crazy but I could do 7000rpm + with ported iron heads and a 2×4 428 intake.
The 400M crank can be reworked to fit the 351W.
Really only makes sense if you have 351W and get a 400M crank cheap.
Stock bore I think it’s 377 CID.
400 crank in a 351 Windsor block…still 4 inch bore and 4inch stroke….400 cubes…
Well so another wards ya thing to tell me the 5.0l HO /302 that’s got 4.020 pistons is considered a 400ci because it has 4 inch pistons in it.
No, on a 5.0L 302, with 4 inch or. 4.002x 3 inch stroke are still a 302. A short deck block won’t take a 4,in stroke. The 351 W may be able to take a 4 in stroke from a 400. Not certain.
It’s not called a 400 “M”. The class is 351 M / 400
I have a 68 351w block that has a 80 over bore. Can anyone tell me the size of this block.
I am sorry Craig Merril. The 351 W was the definition of the Malaise era. The heads were large chamber 302 heads. The Windsor 351s today were rescued by the Aftermarket heads and intakes. The 3 inch main and 2 bolt main without even Chevys dowels on the mains made them the last choice until FE parts were being hoarded. To each his own. I am iold and blind so it doesn’t matter anymore. But the 289 when built well is better than the 351W . The 351C is another matter.
I beg to differ, they do fit with a minimum amount of machine work, which is needed for clearance anyway. It’s literally a $50 upcharge at most shops
Did you mean to say that a 4 inch stroke with a 3 inch main journal will fit in the 289/302 block? It won’t. . It will fit ina 351W. Making it a 400, and at 4.08 a 408. And Ford has an SHP block at 4..125 bore that with the 4 inch stroke is a 427 that flippers can stick in a Cobra and it a 427 Cobra. Be careful if you’re buying one. The difference is value is considerable. The 427 FE is the legitimate engine for these cars, so have your mechanic look at it. The 427 isn’t bad. A lot of transmission choices, but you can buy an adapter for an FE block for modern transmissions, but originality is an issue. Buyer beware.
You left the 360 out of the FE group
OK Ron, we added it.
If you have a 289 block making a 302 pulls the piston skirts out of the bottom of the bores more. Look for a 302 block that has bore extensions cast in for better piston stability. 289s at .030 over are sweet little engines.
Not forget the 390 and the 429 Cobra Jet Engines and the 500ci engine that was in the Galaxy 500 model. My buddy just found one and bought it still all original push button tranny on the dash board. Mint green color black leather interior. All still original with the 500ci engine all still intact breater on the top says Ford Family 500ci
Through researching all & owning most Ford engines, I’ve never seen a factory 500ci. I believe 462ci was the largest, MEL family, heavier version of the FE.
you also forgot the 410 in the FE family
OK Tom–it’s in there now.
[…] We’re also compiling a list of all the common stock Ford motor Bore & Stroke configurations, check it out here. […]
Great collection of info. The offset grinds remind me of the small journal Chevy 327 (a great hot rod motor).
Hey, I’ve got a bronco build and have been doing a lot of research. I’ve got a 351m and was gonna convert it into a 400. After looking at this chart, I was thinking that I could bore it 50 over and put in the 4.050 cylinders from the fence series. Is that how it works?
Bore specs and stroke may be similar but you have to check compression hieght, wrist pin size and rod specs before you just go gathering this part and that with intentions of bolting everything together. Combustion volume and chamber shape dictate piston dome shape also. It’s a lot more then what you are seeing here. Yes a lot of parts in the Ford line up of engines will swap and more if them will not!
Just use the 400 crank, and 400 pistons. The rods are the same.
Jeff is right about just swapping-out the crank and pistons; however, you will also need the damper for the 400. That pesky little item can be a PITA to find.
First off: the valve geometry of the FE head is completely different from that of the Cleveland, so the valve reliefs will be all wrong.
You could buy FE blanks and have them machined with Cleveland crowns — but why not just buy Cleveland pistons and save yourself the headaches and cost?
Second: 0.050 over is crazy in those blocks for a couple of reasons:
(A) Ford blocks are VERY hard when contrasted against blocks from other US makes, and usually will not need a bore job after 400,000 miles if they have been well-kept, but “reasonably well-maintained” blocks might need 0.010 after 250-500 thousand miles, depending. If it needs a 0.030 on the first rebuild, it’s been deliberately abused for a very, very long time.
(B) The tall-deck Cleveland block is ginormous, but it is still a thinwall casting. If you’re going past 0.030, have each bore sonic-checked.
If you’re hoping to unshroud the valves, you need a bore around 4.155 with stock heads and you can get that down to around 4.120 if you’ve got some excellent head work.
In the early 1970s, NHRA Pro Stock allowed (tolerated?) repositioning of the valves, tubes where the exhaust ports used to be — lots of modifications normal people would consider insane.
You can buy “Cleveland” heads with better angles and ports these days, but if you’re not a pro racer, they’re probably not worth it if you can’t use your original rockers, manifold and headers.
Here’s the thing: if you don’t want the valves shrouded, you’re still going to need about a 4.080 bore, which puts you into either a sleeved block or an aftermarket block — and if you’re that far in, just jump up to the 460 and start modding from there.
Following the convention of “bore x stroke”:
A 4.000 x 4.000 is a factory combo that makes 402.12 cubic inches (6,589.63 cc). Bump that up to 4.030 x 4.000 and you get 408.18 cubic inches (6,688.84 cc).
I think you run the risk of splitting one or more cylinders if you go to a 4.050 bore, but if you don’t, with a 4.000 stroke, you get 412.24 cubic inches (6,755.40 cc).
In my opinion, 4.06 cubic inches that you get from the extra 0.020 past a 4.030 bore isn’t worth the price of your block (and whatever other damage is caused if your block fails).
For what it’s worth, https://www.tmeyerinc.com/ offers stroker kits; their biggest “off-the-shelf” kit is 4.030 x 4.350, which is 443.89 cubic inches (7,274.12 cc).
That’s an increase of 92.04 cubic inches (1,508.19 cc) over the 351M — and it is, sort-of, a lot; however, a 460 starts out 107.99 cubic inches (1,769.62 cc) larger than the 351M.
So I’m about to purchase a 302 engine bored at .60 over, which placement would it fall under?
With a 4.060″ bore and stock 3″ stroke, your 302 Windsor’s new displacement, would roughly be 310 cubic inches.
I have a 1971 302 Mexican block with taller & thicker deck & thicker cylinder walls. It was sonic checked & could go to .080 over, currently bored +.060 with no problems.
I would place it in the “high risk” category due to the thin cylinder walls after the .060” overbore.
If it’s not turning serious rpm it’s fine.
What would a 390 bored 40 over be
Well, an FE-series 390 has a 4.050″ bore and a 3.780″ stroke. With a 0.040″ overbore (so, now a 4.090″ bore), your new total displacement would be roughly 397 cubic inches.
I think a sweet FE combination would be a 4.096×3.79 for a good 400 ci engine with early style 352-390 heads and 2.15 intake and 1.66 exhaust with a good single plane and a roller around 240@.050. It will scream make great balanced power and last like a stock engine One similar won EMC 2019 vintage class Beating a 427 BBC.
I still wonder if a D4TE FE block with a 3/16 drill bit test is likely able to be bored to 4.125? I could put a 4.25 stroke in it for a 454 FE. Does anyone know? That is only a .075 overbore or half that off of each wall. The 3/16 between the bores is a thick block. Thanks.
I have a 289 bored 30 over so I went with a Comp cam headers an all based on a mild build where do you think my horsepower will average at?
Jeremy….it would be very difficult to give an accurate estimate of power levels based on the few details that you provided about your 289 build. The 289 can make amazing levels of horsepower despite its small displacement when prepared for Super Stock or Modified Production class Drag Racing but the downside is limited longevity mainly because of the extreme rpm levels involved. You did say your build is “mild” and that could mean a number of things.
There’s a ton of information available online about the specific details of well known factory 289 performance engines that you can compare your 289 build details with. The one most well known is the “K” code hi-po 289 with 271 hp installed in a few different Ford body styles during the sixties. Another is the early Shelby Mustangs with a higher performance 289 with mild performance upgrades producing an advertised 306 horsepower. Check out the similarities between those production engines and your build specifications for a good estimate of your 289’s potential.
Or post more specific details here about your build and I’m pretty sure someone will provide the information that you seek.
He’s better off with 302. You can do a 306 screamer with the right heads, cam, intake, etc will really move early Mustang.
500 whp with mechanical roller and lots of rpm.
If you have a 289 block making a 302 pulls the piston skirts out of the bottom of the bores more. Look for a 302 block that has bore extensions cast in for better piston stability. 289s at .030 over are sweet little engines.
BTtW, the FE has two stroker cranks three if you count the 3.984 by Eagle and Scat who offer all three. A common build is to bore a 390 to 4.08 to 4.09 bore and add the Stroker kits. The 4.125 is 431-433 ci at 4.08 -4.09, and the 4.25 stroker crank at 4.08-4.09 is 445-447. It is a good solution for the tall deck FE. Also be aware that the FT and FE when they stopped using them in cars they were a 105cast backwards where the 352 used to be . All of these MCC castings started with D3TE and so on. These had the third web in the main web like a CJ/427 block but they have 390/391 bore cores. Any overbore should really have an acid bath and sonic. Some will go to 4.11 and even 4.125. Some unscrupulous sellers bore them to 4.13 but some crack run hot and some don’t. A sonic is definitely needed. Also after an acid bath I would fill it up to the bottom of the core plugs or even to the bottom of the water pump holes or an inch below. A good filled block can handle turbo boost up to 800-1000 hp. On the heads keep the exhaust valves small and put as much intake as you can fit. I have had 2.19 and 1.65 exhaust, but they 1.6 is enough to drive a 3582 if you run two and I would.
You forgot 387 Windsors. A stock 351w block, a 3.85 crank, stock 351w rods, and stock 302 pistons. I’m planning on building one to go into my truck, right now it’s a 302.
I’m rebuilding my 351w and I have a 400 crank in it with a 4.00″ stoke I had to get a 30 over bore to clean up the cylinders and the rods are stock at 5.956″ my question is what is the cid
Bore squared x stroke x .7854= CI for one cylinder.multiply that x 8 for Total CI (example) (bore squared) 4.0 x 4.0= 16 x (Stroke) 3.5= 56 / .7854= 43.9824 x 8 =
351.8592 CI
No disrespect to Kelly F Boone, but that formula always bothered me because it doesn’t use proper geometric form:
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The (piston-swept volume) displacement of your engine is described by the number of cylinders, multiplied by the (piston-swept volume) displacement volume of each cylinder.
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In this case, you have 8 cylinders.
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The stock bore diameter of the 351W is 4.000 inches; with a “30 (thousandths of an inch) over bore,” the current bore diameter is 4.030 inches.
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You’re using a 4.000-inch stroke.
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The volume of a cylinder is: ( pi * r * r * h )
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“pi” is approximately 3.141592654
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“r * r” is usually expressed “r squared”; the value of r is half the diameter of the bore.
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“h” is the height of the cylinder; here, it is another name for “stroke”
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putting all of that together and remembering that multiplication is commutative (the product of 2*3*4 is the same as the product of 4*2*3, etc):
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get the division out of the way: the bore diameter is 4.030 inches, which means the radius (of the bore) is 2.015 inches. Now you have the value for “r”
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(r * r * h * pi) is (2.015 * 2.015 * 4.000 * 3.141592654)
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That gives you roughly 51.02229 cubic inches. But wait a minute! You engine is much larger than that! Indeed it is: we only calculated for one cylinder. Multiply by the number of cylinders, and — presto — you get roughly 408.178337 cubic inches. And you’ve followed the proper procedure, so your math professor won’t get bent when it’s time to calculate compression, rod angles and so forth.
You can put a 428 crank in the 427 and have a 447, use to race with them.
So to make the 454 the 427 needs 428 crank AND a bigger bore?
The 427 Ford is 4.233, if you bore it to 4.25 with the 428 crank it comes out to 452 inches, I dont know why people call them 454s, Ford does not reccomend more than a 4.25 bore, .017 over roughly.
a .030 over bore 427 with a 3.98 stroke is 454.45ci.
What aout the 427w?. Great info btw. Thanks
As for the old 427, There were a few variations available to a select group. The mid riser head high rise and tunnel ports. There were side oiler blocks and also the OHCam option. If you got your hands on any of those old parts, remember to check out my other reply post. A lot of parts can be fitted from one engine family to another if you just check your measurements.
If I’m not mistaken wasn’t there a 413 cubic inch Fe the came in Thunderbirds and some Lincoln’s?
There a few odd balls from Mercury and Lincoln also. Not real sure about sizes but there was a 430 in the early 60s from Lincoln and thn there was also the old Y blocks of 272,292 and 312. I read a right up many years ago about someone reworking a 292 crank and fitting it in a 302 . One of the neat things about Fords is the use of common bore centers, such between small blocks, windsore , Clevelands and Modified. Cylinder heads will interchange in all of these , you only have to get pistons with sthe correct dome and adapt intakes. One other rhing is intake port spacing from FE to Clevelands is same, you can have a spacer/adaptor cast to fit Fe block sk valve cover and pushrods stay FE and install a Cleveland manifold on your new hybrid. A friend I had in Waco long ago used to rework 454 Chevy pistons for is in a 390 block. A lot of neat things can be done with some research and help from a good machinist and imagination. Old hotrodders knew a lot that is lost now days to young kids. Some people I built an AMC some years ago and used parts from different AMC blocks, some Ford Parts , Olds parts and a few Chevy and Chrysler items. Man that was a hard running engine. No it wasn’t a Ford and some people know that AMC did use a few Ford items like starters ignition systems and Carbs.
Truth, I am an old hot rodder myself. A sweet 390 combination is to bore to 4.098 and use a 3.79 stroke with 6.7 BBC 2.2 journal rods and custom pistons. A strong safe bore and a nice killer breathing animal for street hunting, lol
There was a 430 cubic inch engine in T-Birds and Lincolns, but it was an MEL series engine not an FE. The MEL was also made in 383,410 and 462 displacements.
The late 60s early 70 come out with a the 429 Cobra Jet Engine in the late 60s first introduced to the 67 1/2 Ford Thunderbirds. To the 1969.
The problem I had with iron 429/460s was a good breathing 427/428 had a good advantage on them. The FE engineers in the 20 years they worked on them were towards performance and racing, where the 429/460 came along with emissions choking them down. These days you can get some much better heads blocks and stuff. The FE aftermarket is just now in high gear as they really tried to kill off the FE . 390/410s were even strong, but the 428s are still good in NHRA racing. The Super Stocks are still 427s vs the Hemis to where they finally each got their own classes. The FE block is strong looking at the SOHC engine running Top Fuel at 3500-4000 hp , but the Elephant motor was still being developed up to the 10,000 hp you see today. I have never broken an FE block and I am pretty sure they are all good to 1000 hp even now without detonating. And with some aluminum bits they are one of the lightest big blocks ever made. I still like them better than any other engine.
370 cu in. In 385 family truck engine from Lima plant.
I was looking for numbers for a 370 cu. in. I just picked up out of a 1984 Ford C700. First time I have ever heard of such an engine, and I am 66. Now, I just need some numbers of it being bored out and possible horsepower and torque I can look forward to (it is going, hopefully, in a 1996
F150).
I have a question???
I’m a Calculate it myself kind of guy and I ran into a problem with the description of the Ford Modular 4.6L engine.
The data says (every where you look it up on the WEB)the 4.6L has B 3.552 X S 3.543 PI()*3.552 *3.543*8 which calculates out to 316.288913 CI’s. which in turn calculates to a 5.18304 Liter engine. how is it called a 4.6L??
Where did I go Wrong? What don’t I understand??
Clyde
CI displacement is: bore radius, squared, X 3.14X StrokeX # of cylinders.
For a more accurate number use .7854 instead of 3.14 which requires division also.
Bore squared X length of stroke X number of cylinders X .7854 = CID
We have the 5.4 version of the 4.6 in Australia.260/290kw (400hp) Used until recently.
4.6l engines junk 3 timing chains main front with chain going up to left bank ohc and 1 in the back going up to other right bank cam. Hope timing chain in back not go out on ya. Be a fo okn job to have to pull engine out just to change it. Good luck.
Let’s say your bore is 4.040 and stroke is 3.400.
It’s bore squared or Take the bore in half, in this case its 2.02.
So it is 2.02 x 2.02 x 3.400 x 3.141592654 x 8m
Answer to the above is 348.76556 whick would be considered a 349ci engine as it is rounded up.
It is half of bore x half of bore x stroke x Pi (3.14) x 8 #of cylinders
I’m building a 427 Clevor with 4.125 bore & 4.000 stroke. Of course it’s a World block so it’s got thicker walls. Real (right part number) Boss heads, all 4 bolt mains, mains priority oil, Hilborn injectors, alky and compressed to an inch of its life (14:1?). 1000 bhp? But I only need it for 7 seconds.
My problem is pistons. It looks like customs. Any suggestions?
I’ve had good luck with TRW blanks. Order them with the grooves where you want, lop-off the excess crown and then put the shape on the top that you need. Don’t forget to blend/smooth/polish.
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Maybe get them coated before you do final prep & install.
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You can’t spend too much time getting your ring gaps right. Make sure the rings and block have been at the same temperature the whole time you’re gapping, even if it takes you a day per cylinder. It shouldn’t take that long, but — you know — “Murphy.”
That is a sweet combination. I’m an FE guy, but I don’t throw rocks at any of them. The 4.125 bore W is a great block. I wish that they would make a 4.16 block for FE engines. They have great stroker kits for the FE, but I have done 4.16 bores with steel 3.79 rods and they were hotdoggers! 7000 all day with CJ heads and a Ford OHO cam.
Any information on the 300 six 4.9l looking to build a off the wall combination..
I think that a supercharger would make sense on the venerable 300. Had a Canadian? 300 in My English Ford truck assembled in Australia.A Holley 350 and extractor exhaust helped it along
The Aussie Barra inline is V8 killer too
A small turbocharger cam make a 300 six a very hairy canary! There is an episode of Engine Power called Buzzing Half Dozen that details a stout 550 hp / ft lbs on one with 390 std sized forged pistons!
Looking for a replacement for my engine in a 2013 3.7l mustang. I’m looking for something different and something that would make this car different from any other builds. I’m just looking for a supplier to help.
Look into dart 302 blocks or a timberwolf Ford engines website 302 5.0l ho stroker blocks . Stroker blocks 331 /347/363ci
Can a 302 crank and rods be put in a 260 to make a stroker. Can the 260 handle an overbore to 4.00″?
You can put 260 pistons on the 302 crank and rods, makes a 272 I believe. It has to be balanced. Also gives about 11 to 1 compression. You cannot bore to 4.00.
Help! Engine D9TE-AB with Heads D3VE-A2 and manifold D8TE- DA. I have a DSO built 1983 F250 HD 4×4, SLT Lariat I am having a real tough time researching the engine and trying to figure out what the specs are. It was definitely built for hauling and fuel economy. FIRST, the engine is listed as a 7.5E-E/API. I understand that “E” is after the 7.5 is for economy? Next, it is classified as a 460ciM. So, M is a tax classification do to its weight and displacement and must be registered with the National Highway of Safety Administration, which it is. I pulled that info and it states that the displacement is 7538.049440 with engine PWR (KW as 164.O540 and brake of 220hp-225hp.)
NEXT, the engine is marked as “L” in my VIN with a casting of D9TE-AB and heads D3VE-A2. Stamped at the top of the engine next to the firing order is 11. Stamped at the bottom front right corner is 116-17 with an M about 1.5 inches above it. I think this is a Long block and long stroked, dumbed down for torgue and not high RPMs. Cannot figure out specs or timing specs. Don’t really understand what the hell I have! Please help and explain in layman’s terms for me as I bought it as a farm truck for hauling, not racing. I need to have the oil pan gasket done and the head gasket, and make sure it is tuned/timed and purring like a kitten. What the heck do I got and how can I make it better?
Pretty much a run of the mill late 70s heavy hauler. But with a small cam swap and an Edelbrock RPM it will run surprisingly well as well as still be a fine truck engine. If you’re regasketing it I would check the timing chain at the very least and get a multiple keyway one and have a good performance mechanic to check the timing in the gear, many were retarded and good multi keyway gear set can make it run better, cheapest upgrade and maintenance fix you can get without tearing the engine apart. The 460 stock is a brute.
recently ran across some Jessel pistons that are 4.185 dia. and my first thought was “no way” to put these in a 351C. but then I dont know all the tricks.
What do the experts say?
Likely FE for Super Stock. JMO. I can’t think of anything but a real 428 or 406 block that can bore that far.
I have a 302 Ford I’ve bord it .60 over it has a 3.50 stroke what would the CBI be thanks
Roughly 362 Ci
3
You forgot the 614 BBF, 4.5 SCAT stroker crank ground for the 240 rod journal to a 4.6 stroke (crower 6.9″rods), .240 overbore of a Dove or Dive block, aftermarket pistons with a 1.09 comp hgt and a 20cc dish will give you 12/1 compression, it will need 1400 cm for carbs and makes 980 hp at 7200 rpm. Still steerable and certainly cruisable. Cost 10K
We have the 5.4 version of the 4.6 in Australia.260/290kw (400hp) Used until recently.
I am assembling components to build a 331 inch ford small block. I have the block, crank, and pistons but the 5.200 rods aren’t to be found? Is there another engine or mfg’r with rods that would substitute? Any help would be greatly appreciated. J. White
The original poster forgot to include the 370 cubic inch, 385 series. Can’t blame the OP, though, since I have only just in the past week, heard of such an engine.
I wonder if a 428 FE or a D3 or D4TE block with 428 bore cores could be bored to 4.185 size? With a 3.98 stroke, it would make for a rev happy good displacement engine that with today’s aftermarket heads could make 750 to 800 hp with a 6.766 440 Mopar rod would give a good piston speed and parasitic loss balance from an engine with one of the greatest architectural designs from the 1950s. Way ahead of its time , and would yield great performance and longevity. I like the idea, a 438 ci FE in a 69 Mach1? That would be so nice. Maybe a company could make kit cars for the 69 Mach1 428 CJ that would run with the new stuff? Gives me chills imagining it, they were beautiful cars!
Just locate a 429 Boss Cobra Jet Engine and drop it in. Has all you talking about doing . Just my personal opinion.
I forgot to say that the FE can be built as light as a 351W and with their original 13 degree valve angle heads and an adapter available from FE Power can adapt any 351C intake manifold to it. A 2×4 TW with a dual Sniper EFI. The 50s engineers were so far ahead of their time. It is a shame that Ford crippled them with lousy cams. The 427 was a fine race engine, but they could have made the FE a street icon so easily. I only now are people seeing it. Lol I have been an FE freak that took a lot of people’s lunch money with my FE then from over the counter parts. If I were 20 instead of 60…. lol.
If you sonic test a 385 series block you can bore it .240 over to get a 4.6 bore and if you have Crower make a rod with the journal size of a 240 six cylinder 2.087 using a .060 oversize bearing, you can add 0.125 stroke to a Scat 4.5 stroker crank together a 4.625 stroke giving you 4.6 x 4.625 which is 615 out of a cast block, all for about 5k.
On the 460s I have seen sonic tests on the were not that thick. Some were thin and had core shift issues. To go that big I would expect to have a Kasse block or sleeves and a long stroke.. I am talking about stock blocks. There are a lot of aftermarket ones. I find it sad that NHRA has gone out of its way to keep the Ford Boss out. The bore spacing is a Joke after all of the development done by the Coils to get them competitive with Mopar.
Why for the 351w does the bore say 4.00″ in one section and in the 393 stroker section for the 351w it states the factory bore is 3.850″?
Which is it?
You completely passed over the 4.9L inline 300ci 7 cylinder. 4.00 bore and 3.98 stroke
Hey Jonathan, thanks for reading, and you’re right; this post was primarily concerning the V8s. Did you mean the 300 six cylinder? We’ve got a pair of articles you may find interesting:
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How to Build a Ford Inline Six Engine for Durability and Power
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Top 10 Engines of All Time (#4): Ford 300 I6
The 351W has a bore of 4.000
How can you make a 445ci with a 351w block. Cause a guy is selling a mustang with a 351w its a aftermarket block bored to a 445 ci
They also make a 502ci engine to drop in
Love this site , Super Informative!!!
I agree. There are few red herrings, but the people here are good natured about straight info and no bickering like on a lot of forums. So many are in it for the money, to sell their products and services. This is exchanging information and politely correcting wives tale and misleading information. I like it!
That’s really great to hear guys, thank you. We strive to be accurate and responsive around here—I’ll pass your comments onto our staff.