I recently bought one of those new 750 cfm Edelbrock AVS2 carburetors for my 1969 Satellite with a 383 V8. It runs pretty good but it has a slight hesitation when I nail the throttle hard at low speeds. I’m just learning about carburetors but I don’t see any accelerator pump like on a Holley. Is there a way to adjust the carburetor so that it will not bog when I hit the throttle hard?
S.T.
The Edelbrock AVS2 carb was a great choice for your 383.
The AVS name is an acronym that stands for Air Valve Secondary. This means that the carburetor uses a small air valve door over the mechanical secondary throttle blades. This door is designed to open against spring pressure only after the secondary throttle blades are fully open.
As you mentioned, mechanical secondary Holley carbs use an accelerator pump nozzle to squirt fuel into the secondaries to compensate for a lean air-fuel ratio mixture when the throttle blades are opened quickly—especially at low engine speeds.
The Edelbrock carburetor does not use these squirters, as you noticed. The idea behind the air valve door is to gradually open to create enough air velocity past the secondary boosters to create a sufficient signal to begin to pull fuel from the boosters into the engine.
The air valve door is spring-loaded directly on the shaft and it is adjustable. If you are experiencing a hesitation or a bog, this likely means the air valve door is opening too quickly and not creating enough velocity to initiate the boosters, so the engine experiences a lean hesitation.
The fix is extremely easy.
The photos at the bottom of this article will show you the location of a small Torx brass locking screw that holds down a slot in the shaft. A large flat-bladed screwdriver will adjust the spring tension once the lock screw is loosened. In your case, loosen the Torx locking screw and slightly tighten the spring tension by about 1/8-turn. This should create sufficient tension to slow down the opening just enough to create the proper velocity to trigger the boosters sooner, which will then eliminate the hesitation.
Understanding Hesitation & Carb Calibration
Some people interpret a slight hesitation when the secondaries slam open as a sign they are working properly. This is not true.
A hesitation means the engine is not making the power during that transition period so it is not optimized. Tighten the spring slightly and then take the car out for a test drive. If you can still feel a slight hesitation, just tighten the spring a very tiny bit more until the hesitation is eliminated.
The jetting for your engine will probably be pretty close for your engine at wide-open-throttle (WOT). If you want to try adjusting the primary part-throttle metering, you might look at swapping the power valve spring for a slightly weaker spring. The primary system works with a metering rod and a jet. The system is designed where a spring pushes up on a piston that is connected to the primary metering rod. Under high vacuum (low load), the engine vacuum pulls the piston downward which pushes the tapered metering rod deeper into the jet, reducing fuel flow.
Opening the throttle applies more load, engine vacuum drops and the spring begins to push up on the piston which pulls the tapered rod out of the jet which creates a larger opening to flow more fuel.
Sometimes the spring pulls the jet out too soon at light throttle and the engine runs a little bit lean. Edelbrock makes a carburetor calibration kit that offers a slightly softer spring that will hold the metering rod in the jet a little longer, which will create a leaner mixture at part throttle. This will only affect metering at part throttle. At WOT, the jetting and air-fuel mixture will be the same.
The great thing about the Edelbrock AVS2 is its annular boosters really make it a great part-throttle street carburetor. And with a little bit of tuning it can be even better!
har en magen til på min olds 1971 350 viker godt men når motoren er godt varm og har stået stille i 15min kan den ikke starte så er den druknet og kan næsten hvad kan det være er det et stråle rør der løber
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You realize you have the metering rod step up spring tuning backwards right?
I want find good use 750 for my new 350 1104 summit cam and the 750 good carb jegs performance recommended to run 750. Let me know thanks Donny
My Avs 2 is hesitating at 1/2 yo wot timing is set good, floats are set good I have silver springs in. This issue came up only when I changed from auto trans to 4 speed when it was auto it worked great now I get this bogging and hesitation when giving it some. If I go hard on it by the time I shift from 2-3 it starts to hesitate a lot like it’s starving. If I drive like old lady car is fine. Oh and I did adjust secondary but it just helped a bit. I went with yellow springs and it did better but still us some hesitation but felt like I lost a lot of power.
I have a 472 BB Oldsmobile 9:5.1 compression, moderate cam, 2000 stall. Just bought an 1913 AVS2 800 cfm. Doing rebuild and looks like it’s had jets/rods changed. What is a good jet/rod combo for this BB?
454 bored .030 .. flat top pistons. Stock 781 heads. Mild cam. Had dual quads, ran great. Changed to Eldebrock 800. avs2. Ran even better. Changed out the Walker turbos for Flowmaster 40s. Now it loads up and backfires. Runs like crap. All I changed were the mufflers. I don’t understand. Please help. Darrell.
Hi, I just got a 55 chevy with a 350 mild cam and automatic trans. I got it from western IL, and live in Golden Colorado, to recalibrate for the altitude +- 6000′ what jets would you recommend and some other adjustments that are needed. It is a Eldebrok AVS2 1905-0263. I am not a carburetor guy, but i will have a guy helping that knows carburetors. Is there a good kit for this recalibration?
Thank you,
Dale
Hi. I have an Edelbrock 1407 which has an air valve with weights and not a spring. I have a problem when the secondary flaps open as I go onto full throttle the engine splutters and hold back. Seems to have become worse following cleaning the carb out. Any ideas? Thanks.
I have had nothing but trouble with my 850 AVS-2 . with electric choke, the latest is I’m now missing the mounting block on the choke plate for the chock rod to push the choke plate open/close. God only knows where that went? it does not make a decent vacuum, I have 6lb fuel pressure. I would not recommend this carb to anyone. Edelbrock techs stopped communicating with me,
I recently purchased a T-Bucket that has the AVS2. Last weekend I went out to start doing some work on it for the Spring season. When I powered it on to start it, it would barely turnover. Put battery booster on it, same thing. I pulled the air cleaner off and look down the carb and see that it is pouring gas nonstop into my intake. I pulled the plugs to blow all the gas out of the cylinders. Do I need to rebuild it, and if so, does it require a total rebuild or is there a particular place/thing to look at?
When I’m driving my nova and come to a stop light the carb won’t come back down to idel it stays around 1300 rpm I have to put car in neutral and hit gas pedal real fast then it goes back down to 800-900 rpm. It’s like the stuff on passenger side of carb is hanging up idk how can I fix this? Thanks
My carb does not have a hesitation at all! When I’m regular driving and come to a stop the carb isn’t coming back to idel it acts like it’s hanging around 1300 rpm I have to put car in neutral and rev motor fast then it come down to 700-800 rpm I can’t figure out why??
We will assume that the carb has an electric choke. It could be that the choke is not completely coming off when the engien is warmed up You might try leaning the choke adjustment to help it come off the fast idle cam completely. Try this and see if this will help. I will also assume you have a sufficient strong return spring on the throttle.
It’s a 5 month old AVS2 carb only had a 90 day warranty so I can’t take it back
To adjust the secondary air valve door spring, you have it backwards.
Turning counterclockwise will increase tension and clockwise will decrease tension.
Can you interchange the AVS2 primary nozzle with the performer nozzle to get the advantage of the annular spray nozzle.
Hi Jeff
Through reading your procedure on how to adjust the spring tension for the secondary air door, I loosened the set screw and went to adjust the spring tension and there was nothing there, it turns clockwise and anticlockwise and doesn’t do anything meaning tension up or loosen the tension, I can see both ends of the spring that do not appear to be hooked to anything.
Totally Confused, any help would be greatly appreciated