Proper fuel pressure is really, really important to an engine. And that’s especially true on today’s computer-controlled, fuel injected cars and trucks, where even a slight hiccup in your air/fuel mix can result in misfires, lower MPGs, poor starting, and a host of other (potentially serious) problems.
So, if you’re suspect you having issues with your fuel system. A pressure test is often the best place to start looking.
Problem is, since fuel pressure is such an exact science, you absolutely need to follow the correct testing procedures for a proper diagnosis. The good news? Checking your engine’s fuel pressure isn’t that tough, provided you’ve got the right fuel pressure test tools and training.
That’s why we like this video from the fuel pump pros at Carter (who purchased Airtex). It’s only about five minutes long, yet contains a detailed, thorough walkthrough of how to correctly test your car or truck’s fuel pressure.
Think you’ve got fuel pressure problems? It’s definitely worth checking out:
I thought all LS/vortec engines ran at 58-60psi fuel pressure? I also thought they all had shrader valves at the end of the driver side fuel rail. I guess I need to look at more than just my 2002 WS6 TransAm. The valve hook up on the fuel rail made the nitrous kit easy to install. I’ll have to check out the fuel rails on my L33 to see how it’s set up but from what I remember both of those engines are suppose to run 58-60psi of fuel pressure. I mainly looked at this video to see about testing the fuel pressure at high rpm and under load. I dont want volume and pressure to drop to low when I’m running WOT at high RPM and pushing a 150shot, which is already at the edge of what the factory pump can support anyway. Blowing up a 20 year old engine that has 70,000 miles on it because of a pump that cant keep up seems like negligent homicide of a perfectly good engine. I guess I’ll jet it back down to a 125hp shot until I can set up a fuel pressure gauge and add a wide band o2 sensor and meter to the car. Whats more switches and meters anyway? With all the switches in my 1989 formula firebird with its race built 383 and T56 conversion. I doubt anyone could steal it, let alone crank it. You have to know exactly which switches to activate to even crank it and some of those might even be hidden, lol. Plus the chip in the key still work as well.