I was wondering if there is anything that is out there to get rid of the Opti-Spark Distributor in my 1994 Z/28 LT1 engine?
R.P.
There are a couple of options for converting away from the Opti-Spark. One in particular is from EFI Connection but this requires a serious investment of multiple components to convert the existing LT1 engine over to essentially an electronic fuel injection style spark control like the system found on an LS1 engine.
This is a very nice conversion but the expense pushes it far beyond $1,000 depending upon where you get the parts. Buying all new parts will be quite expensive but the benefit is that this conversion would also make a few more horsepower. Much of that depends upon the modifications to your existing engine. If your LT1 is stock, any power improvement would likely not be worth the investment.
You didn’t specifically mention a problem, but we will assume you have been having issues with your existing system. The early Opti-Spark systems used in the 1993-95 cars suffered from problems due to condensation forming inside the distributor housing. This caused spark scatter and drivability problems. This issue was minimized with ’96 and later engines with a distributor housing fitted with a simple 1/8 inch vacuum hose fitting that was connected to intake manifold vacuum.
This conversion lowered the pressure inside the distributor cap and pulled the condensation out of the housing. If you’re willing to do a backyard conversion, it would be worth the effort to convert your older distributor with a homemade vacuum port using vacuum tubing and some epoxy to seal it into the housing and then connect it with a small vacuum line to the intake manifold. Of course, you could also just convert to a complete new 1994 and later distributor.
It’s also been noted that the drive seal from the water pump could seep coolant into the distributor housing that would also cause similar ignition difficulties. While it seems odd, it could be that replacing the water pump with a higher quality pump like a Dayco pump could reduce ignition problems. The clue would be coolant residue inside the distributor housing.
One point that’s worth emphasizing can be found in the name of the ignition.
“Opti” refers to an optical trigger used instead of the more commonly found magnetic triggers used in most distributors. This optical trigger is far more accurate and when driven directly off the camshaft as is used in the LT1 offers a far more accurate spark trigger system than the more common cam-driven distributor gear that can suffer from backlash and cam twist issues when employed in higher revving engines.
Based on this, it would seem worthwhile to improve the durability of your existing Opti-Spark system rather than just replacing it.
MSD still makes their much-higher quality “replacement” units.
You mean these? MSD Pro-Billet LT1 Distributors
Believe ment to say 1993 not 1994
A cheaper yet better investment is to do a 0411 PCM/ECM swap. Preferred is an 2002 Savanna van PCM Vortec 350 as the parameters are close to the LT1 PCM. Of course you have to repin and program the PCM, however for less than $500 for all you need and even a tune versus spending mega bucks and the work involved. The Optispark then becomes nothing more than a distributor, and you don’t have to worry about swapping the Optispark either, nor the cost involved. The newer PCM is easier and much more efficient than the original PCM as well.
What should one do if upgrading to 450 to 500 hp in a stroker? Does it matter?
A quick comment for Jeff Smith from a wife who searches undercover for articles that help me understand more. I still have to look up alot LoL, but my husband doesn’t get as frustrated trying to explain.