Camaro launching at drag strip
(Image/Wayne Scraba)

Some folks tend to use the terms ladder bars and traction bars interchangeably. Both are traction aids, but there are some big differences in how they work and which will ones are better for your car.

What Are Ladder Bars?

Prior to four link suspension systems coming into vogue, the ladder bar was the go-to setup many racers used to control rear axle housing wrapup. A ladder bar is simply a triangular shaped member that connects the rear axle housing to the frame, usually by welding.

According to Jerry Bickel Race Cars:

“The ladder bar prevents excessive wrapup by pushing up on the frame at the point of connection. The front of the car is lifted or “picked up” by this action, so the attachment point is called the pickup point. Since the car typically has two ladder bars (on each side of the rear end housing), there are two pickup points. As the ladder bars push up on the chassis at the pickup point, they push down on the wheels and tires. This plants the tires forcefully, creating better traction.”

“Racers soon discovered that pickup point locations have a lot to do with the behavior of the chassis. Short, high pickup point locations create a violent action in the chassis that may wad the drag slicks excessively at launch. Afterwards, there may not be enough load transfer to keep the tires planted. Both issues reduce tire traction and increase elapsed times. Short, high pickup points also cause severe body separation at launch, resulting in poor driveshaft alignment.”

A good ladder bar setup is designed to be welded to the car. Some early ladder bars bolted on, such as the ones made for vintage GM four-link suspensions. Were they effective? Probably not.

Ladder bars can be used on cars with leaf springs or coils. If ladder bars are used with leaf springs, the car will immediately encounter bind. That’s why leaf spring cars with weld-on traction devices must use some form of axle housing floater. if the suspension system has a coil spring of some sort (most often, a coil-over shock), bind is not an issue.

What Are Traction Bars?

Most people associate the term traction bar with the classic ‘slapper bar’ that bolts underneath a leaf spring. Slapper bars are extremely simple. They use U- or J-bolts to attach to the leaf springs or the axle housing. A snubber at the front of the bar is positioned under the front eyelet of the leaf spring. As the car accelerates and the rear axle pinion angle rotates, the snubber contacts the spring and eliminates wrapup. That helps plant the rear tires for better traction.

Slapper bars for coil-sprung cars replace the lower link. They act much like a slapper bar—as the housing rotates, the front snubber contacts part of the frame or subframe. This in turn picks up the front of the car.

Calvert Racing’s CalTracs Bars are also considered traction bars, but they work differently than slapper bars. They attach to the rear axle and a triangular-shaped bracket mounted to the front leaf spring eyelet. The lower hole in the bracket attaches to the bar, the center hole aligns with the leaf spring eyelet, and the top hole has a pin through it that will ride on top of the leaf spring pack.

As the car accelerates, the axle will wrap and push the link bar forward. A pivot at the front leaf eyelet then forces the pin riding on top of the springs downward into the spring pack. This provides downforce on the entire axle assembly and pushes your tires onto the track surface. The harder you get on the throttle, the harder the downward force on your tires.

Another take on the traction bar are Competition Engineering’s Slide-A-Links. They bolt to the bottom of the spring much like a conventional slapper bar and have a telescopic lower link. As the leaf spring attempts to wrap up with axle rotation, the lower link tube telescopes and torque is transmitted through the sliding link to eliminate bind. Free travel and preload adjustments are made by adjusting the jack screw at the rear of the bar.

In the end, all traction bars are not ladder bars. But ladder bars are traction devices. For more, see the accompanying images.

Summit Racing Double Adjustable Ladder Bars
These Summit Racing™ Double-Adjustable Ladder Bars are representative of most ladder bars. Fabricated from one-inch diameter DOM steel tubing, the weld-on bars have a double-adjustable lower link that allows you to make quick pinion angle and preload adjustments without removing the bars from the car. (Image/Summit Racing)
Ladder bar downforce illustration
This illustration shows the typical side view of a ladder bar suspension system. As the suspension wraps up, it creates an upward force at the ladder bar pickup point on the frame. This creates a downward force on the tires and improves traction. (Image/Jerry Bickel Race Cars)
Competition Engineering Axle Floater
On a leaf spring-equipped car, the ladder bars and the rear axle travel in different arcs, which causes rear suspension bind. Using an axle housing floater like this one made by Competition Engineering will allow the axle to move freely back and forth, eliminating the bind. Bind is not an issue with ladder bars on coil-spring suspensions. (Image/Summit Racing)
Summit Racing Traction Bars
The most common of all traction bars has to be the slapper bar. Slapper bars sit underneath the leaf springs and have a rubber snubber at the front that sits close to the front spring eyelets. As the car accelerates and the rear axle rotates, the snubber contacts the spring to eliminate spring wrapup. These Summit Racing™ Traction Bars bolt to the leaf springs with U-bolts. They’re available in this bright yellow that every 1970s gearhead ran or in black for the less flashy. (Image/Summit Racing)
Competition Engineering Traction Bars for GM A-Body
Slapper bars for coil-sprung cars like these Competition Engineer bars for GM A-bodies bolt to the lower control arm brackets on the axle housing. They extend under the frame and have a snubber on the front. As the housing rotates, the front snubber contacts the frame to eliminate wheel hop. The adjustable upper threaded link allows for fine tuning. (Image/Summit Racing)
Traction Bar on Chevy Nova
Here’s how a set of well-used Competition Engineering Street and Strip Traction Bars mount on a Nova. Note how the rubber snubber sits below the leaf spring eyelet. When installed properly, the snubber should sit parallel to the chassis or angle up slightly. If the snubber is angled down, go back and readjust the bar so the snubber sits properly. On a street-driven car like this, having a gap between the snubber and the spring eyelet will help keep the ride tolerable. For the track, you want the snubber to just touch the eyelet. (Image/Summit Racing)
Competition Engineering Slide-A-Link Traction Bars
Competition Engineering says their Slide-A-Link Traction Bars can shave half a tenth off of your 60-foot times. They bolt under the leaf springs much like conventional slapper bars. The secret is the telescoping lower link, which gives you two inches of adjustability when setting pinion angle and spring preload. That gives you more control over front-end lift and weight transfer so you can make quick on-car adjustments to suit the track conditions. The bars come with special urethane bushings that store energy to prevent unloading between shifts. (Image/Summit Racing)
Calvert Racing CalTracs Traction Bars on Chevy Nova
Calvert Racing’s CalTracs are considerably different than the other bolt-on traction bars. Here’s a set on a yet another Nova. CalTracs have a lower link bar much like the Slide-A-Link traction bars do. As the car accelerates and the springs wrap up, the pivot at the front leaf eyelet forces a pin riding on top of the springs downward. This provides downforce on the entire axle assembly and pushes your tires onto the track surface. The harder you get on the throttle, the harder the downward force on your tires. (Image/Wayne Scraba)
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Author: Wayne Scraba

Wayne Scraba is a diehard car guy and regular contributor to OnAllCylinders. He’s owned his own speed shop, built race cars, street rods, and custom motorcycles, and restored muscle cars. He’s authored five how-to books and written over 4,500 tech articles that have appeared in sixty different high performance automotive, motorcycle and aviation magazines worldwide.