I’ve been looking at aftermarket billet aluminum oil filters with a stainless mesh filter that you can disassemble, clean, and re-use. Are these any good? I don’t mind taking a filter apart and cleaning it. I’m thinking it might reveal problems before they really get bad but I’m not sure I’m getting as good a filter. What’s the story on these filters?
N.R.
Jeff Smith: I’ve looked into the specs of a couple of these filters. As you mentioned, they use a stainless steel mesh that these companies rate in the neighborhood of 30 microns of filtering capacity. Let’s start with what is a micron. In layman’s terms, 1 micron is equal to one millionth of a meter or 0.00039 inch. To put this in perspective, a human hair measures between 40 and 80 microns. The following chart puts microns in inches.
Microns | Inches |
---|---|
10 | 0.00039 |
25 | 0.00098 |
30 | 0.00118 |
40 | 0.00157 |
50 | 0.00197 |
60 | 0.00236 |
70 | 0.00276 |
80 | 0.00315 |
90 | 0.00354 |
100 | 0.00394 |
According to Fram’s Technical Training Manager Jay Buckley, dirt and foreign material measuring smaller than 10 microns will be small enough to be carried in suspension in the oil and will pass through even tight bearing clearances. Material larger than 20 microns is generally considered too large to pass through tight bearing clearances although with performance engines with main bearing clearances of 0.0030-inch, this is certainly possible. But generally speaking, foreign material in the range between 10 and 20 microns will potentially do the most engine damage over time. So a filter that can efficiently filter within this range would offer distinct advantages and certainly reduce engine wear.
There are several tests that some manufacturers perform to test the efficiency of a filter. The original test was a single pass efficiency (SPE) test where the oil passed through the filter once and the amount of dirt captured is rated relative to its efficiency measured. In this case, if the filter removed 9 out of 10 of the contaminants of a given size –20 microns for example – then the filter would have an efficiency rating of 90 percent. While this test has validity, the more accurate test now generally used is the multi-pass efficiency test (MPE) where the oil passes through the filter more than once. This is regarded as a better measure because most passenger car engines do not filter 100 percent of the oil pumped into the filter. During cold start operation and during high rpm operation, some oil is routinely by-passed around the filter to minimize a serious pressure drop across the filter.
All quality oil filters use an internal bypass valve. This bypass is designed to avoid a situation where the filter becomes clogged and cannot supply a sufficient volume of oil to the engine. Dirty oil is better than no oil at all. For a typical Fram filter, this valve opens when the pressure on the inlet side of the filter exceeds between 12 to 30 psi more than the outlet side of the filter.
According to Buckley, from a purely legal standpoint, if a filter traps one piece of 30 micron debris, the manufacturer can state it has the capacity to filter at the 30 micron level. Buckley says, “The only way a micron rating means anything is to use the filter efficiency numbers published by the manufacturer.” This filter efficiency rating is listed as a percentage. “For the Fram Ultra Guard filter, it is 99 percent efficient at 20 microns. At 10 microns it’s 94 percent efficient.”
Buckley also made a good point that unless you use brand new solvent to clean a reusable filter, it’s possible you may not be really cleaning the filer as much as you might hope. Remember, a 30 micron piece of dirt is only slightly larger than 0.001inch.
One reason the Fram Ultra Guard is so efficient is that it uses a higher quality filtering media. A standard Fram Extra Guard, and many other standard oil filters, use a cellulose/synthetic blend filter media. Each company’s design of this media is proprietary. Upgrading to the Ultra Guard filter, this uses a dual layer synthetic glass filter material that is more efficient at capturing debris between the 10 and 20 micron size.
Basically, filters trade efficiency for flow rates. A perfect filter would eliminate all debris with no reduction in oil flow rate, but this—as yet—is not possible. In order for a filter to really clean the oil, it will present some restriction to flow. This means that at any one time, a certain amount of oil is by-passed around the filter. This happens with any filter, regardless of design. If an increased oil flow rate is necessary – as with an oil filter intended for race engines, this will use a material that will allow more oil flow – which generally means it will not filter quite as efficiently as a production car filter. Fram, for example, also makes racing filters that feature a thicker-wall container and a different filter material that allows a higher flow rate. These filters are generally not as efficient in cleaning in the 10 to 20 micron range because the understanding is that a race engine will change the oil and filter far more often than a street-driven engine.
As long as we are on the subject of keeping the engine oil clean, it’s important to mention that the very first line of defense for clean engine oil is to start with highly efficient air filter. A high-quality air filter goes a long way toward keeping the inside of the engine clean along with a functioning positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve that will pull oil vapors out of the engine.
To wrap this up, Buckley offered this quote from GM engineer David Staley taken from a 1988 SAE paper on oil filter efficiency. “Compared to a 40 micron filter, engine wear was reduced by 50 percent with 30 micron filtration. Likewise, wear was reduced by 70 percent with 15 micron filtration.”
Since it is now February 2016 what oil filters do you recommend in the 10 micron range that are not Fram ?
[…] Ummmmm…ok. Doesn't this article contradict what you're saying a little? BTW, it was written in May 2015. Ask Away with Jeff Smith: Micron Ratings and What They Mean for Your Oil Filter – OnAllCylinders […]
How about magnets, do they help with smaller micron particles?
I’m sure magnets will help, but the problem is that in order to attract metal particles, the oil has to be physically close. I’m assuming that the magnets you are suggesting would be a drain plug magnet since it has to be easily accessible – otherwise if is of little help since you will need to clean the magnet occasionally. A high quality filter has a much greater chance to do a better job of filtering the smaller particles. Changing your oil a little more often is also a benefit since the smaller particles will be held in suspension in the oil.
The smaller the filtering micron rating the more resistance there would be which would automatically open the bypass valve in the filter or the pump and let unfiltered oil go back through the system. If use an additional bypass oil filtration system from AMSOIL that filters 10% of the oil all the time at 98.7% @2 microns absolute. Oil analysis says the system works great and is excellent for long drain intervals.
Is there any recommendation on what filters to use for driveline oils (specifically a gl5 gear oil)? I’m building a oil cooler setup for a relatively expensive differential on my road race car. A filter was in the original design parameters but not sure how to best implement.
If a 5 or 10 micron oil filters bypass will open under high RPM’s, and cold conditions. This means there is unfiltered oil returning to the engine. I have a Flo cleanable oil filter stainless steel mesh 30 micron filter. So in my mind it’s 6 of one, and a half dozen of the other. Filtering oil at a 90% rate at 30 microns, or filtering oil at a 30% rate. So the dirt is still returning. A 10 micron filter will filter best at operating temperatures at low RPM’s, and still have oil bypassing the filter at a small percentage. Changing the oil more frequently in my personal opinion is the key. I like the Flo oil filter because it reduced my oil temperature by 20°. The oil temperature went from 230° with a fan assisted oil cooler to 210° when I started using the Flo cleanable oil filter. I always use the high end break klean from the inside, rinse with cold water from the tap and air dry with compressed air that’s filtered as well. I apply a thin coat of STP oil treatment on the sealing filter gasket, and tighten to 80 inch pounds. All replies are welcome.
Update to my statement.
I ride a 2009 Harley-Davidson motorcycle, I installed the oil temperature gauge at the same time i installed the fan assisted oil cooler. I have no idea what the oil temperature was before that. I’m sure on very hot days it was around 245° At a 95° day on the highway at 70 mph 2600 rpm’s the oil temperature just below 195°, because the fans come on at 195°. As soon as I get off the highway, the oil cooler fans come on to help keep the oil temperature at 210° to 215° since the Flo oil filter. Before the oil filter, the oil temperature would be around a solid 230° On the highway and off the highway and city roads
Read like Mr. Smith worked for Fram Filter company. Nonetheless the original question was never addressed.
For high compression engines in carbureted dragsters, do I want an oil filter that allows for easier flow though the oil filter to improve oil movement under full power applications …………ie. a larger micron rating??
Personally, I would not sacrifice flow or compromise on the micron rating. The larger filter elements are meant to allow more oil flow through while still achieving the desired micron rating. A previous post mentioned having a bypass filter as well; this is a great idea. Bypass filters allow around 5% of the total oil volume to get extremely clean and then return to the oil pan for full circulation again. The overall affect is a much cleaner oil over time without sacrificing lubrication of the engine components.